Sunday, 1 February 2015

Autumn/Winter 2015 Menswear - Best of the Rest.

So, by now, you will have seen my round-up of the best Menswear from the London collections. Now that all the other fashion capitals have shown, I have once again scoured to bring you the best of the best from all the rest.

1. Icosae
Icosae is a brand that, in all honesty, I hadn't heard of before. But when I stumbled across their Autumn/Winter 15 collection, I fell in love. Clemarec Florentin, Clemarec Valentin & Hor Anthony presented their “No Mind’s Land” collection for French based fashion brand, and it was full of fun, youthful and oversized silhouettes. My coat obsession continues with this collection, as there were some truly amazing coat shapes in beautiful fabrics. I may not have heared of Icosae before, but they will certainly be on my radar from now on.

2. Balenciaga
With Alexander Wang at the helm, is it any surprise Balenciaga is in my list of favorite collections? He is seamlessly integrating his signature aesthetic into the DNA of the brand, and refining an iteration of luxury that treats the superfluous as sacrilege in pursuit of the pure. Standout pieces were actually the ones that really channeled the minimal aesthetic, like a version of the founder's cocoon coat, with reduced seams and plackets removed creating a minimalist thing of beauty. My personal favorite was the grey cropped jacket with asymmetric closure, so simple yet so perfect.

3. Thom Browne
In complete contrast to the Balenciaga collection, Thom Browne was all about the embellished and over-stated. Inspired by the concept of mourning Browne showed a collection filled with the macabre and bizarre. But this was not just an interpretation of death, but also a homage to the horrendous events that happened at Charlie Hebdo. Dark though the theme may be, the garments still conveyed a sense of fun, with turtles and whales embroidered onto beautiful coats and suiting.

4. Rick Owens
The has been a huge amount of press surrounding the Rick Owens collection, as he presented a collection that gifted the audience with a view of the models penises. While many have used this as a way to say 'look how ridiculous fashion is, nobody is going to wear that', I personally have to defend the collection. And while it may be true that nobody will wear these pieces as they are intended to be worn (mainly because you would get arrested for public indecency offenses), they are without doubt beautiful pieces of menswear the really push the boundaries. In a world where female nudity has become commonplace, male nudity still has the shock factor. Rick Owens is attempting to level the playing field. And the runway is a runway for a reason, it's not to be taken literally, it is a place where designers can illustrate their ethos, a feeling, and the most extreme version of their vision.

5. Sacai
Unlikely combinations are the essence of Sacai, and this collection certainly did not disappoint. The collection was raw, yet polished at the same time, urban yet countrified, and used fabrications in unusual ways. The statement piece had to be a huge blanket scarf (yes!), paired with jogging bottoms and gold Birkenstocks with socks. Not your usual combination, but one that worked so well.

6. Juun.J
The skinny jean is dead. I said this to my housemate and she recoiled in horror. Ok, maybe it isn't dead, but oversized in definitely the key silhouette for next season. And Juun.J presented the ultimate version of the wide leg trouser. They are so beautifully cut, so covetable, I don't want to wait a whole year for these to appear on the highstreet. Somber military-hued colors contrasted against white, and the proportions just blew me away. Give me those trousers now.

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