So here's the eagerly awaited Part 2 of my LCM blog post - I have so much to talk about I felt it best to write it all in two parts! After visiting the designer showroom, I headed over to the show space in Victoria House for the Baartmans and Siegel presentation. Inspired by all aspects of the American 'Great Awakening' era of the 1970's, Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel presented a collection that featured stunning soft tailoring in shades of Camel dotted with elements of hand embroidery and fur. The collection accurately referenced the diverse culture of New York at the time and the tribes of Harlem and Studio 54. Not entirely my style, but there were a few strong pieces that I would definitely wear, like the high waisted pinstripe trousers and fur collared camel coat. The presentation itself, however, was a bit disappointing, as the models themselves got lost amongst everyone viewing the presentation.
I took a break mid-day to spend some time with my boyfriend, but we parted ways when I headed off to the Pieter presentation. Once again taking place in the Victoria House show space, Pieter made much better use of the space, highlighting the models on three illuminated plinths within the room with the models moving around the room in a rotation. A photograph by Robert Mapplethorpe served as a starting point for Pieter this season. The image, titled 'Brian Ridley and Lyle Heeter' sees two men dressed entirely in leather in a traditional living room. The contrast between the conventional and subversive, light and dark, is key to the collection, and probably the reason why I loved it so much. Elements of bondage gear and gay culture are blended beautifully with well cut structured garments to create a uniquely wearable collection. My favourite pieces included a trouser with two D rings at the base of the fly, a beautiful check overcoat and pretty much all the leather pieces, but in all honesty my list could go on and on.
Next up was the KTZ show. You might remember last season I was so close to seeing the KTZ show, but it was so over-subscribed that I was turned away at just 6 people away from getting in. I was NOT going to let that happen again this season. I made sure I was right at the front of the queue, and sure enough I got in. And I'm so glad I did. KTZ is a brand that I have loved for years and there were so many amazing pieces to absorb. With cultural references ranging from Russian Futurism to American sport and the pioneering German electronic band Kraftwerk, KTZ's designer Marjan Pejoski delivered a menswear collection that was erudite yet athletic. For me, it was the first part of the collection that really stood out. Beautifully cut black suiting and coats were emblazoned with shards of intricate mirror creating truly show stopping outfits. Other highlights included the lacing detail pieces, bringing in that sportswear reference in a less obvious way, and woven layered knitwear.
My day culminated in the River Island film screening, featuring films by Lou Dalton X River Island Design Forum, Man About Town and Martine Rose. The Lou Dalton x River Island Design Forum Fashion Film ‘Bones of a flightless bird’ created
a strong sense of nostalgia and belonging, with no apparent line
between the city and country. Drawing inspiration from Perry Ogden’s
books, Lou Dalton continues to reimagine British menswear and move it
away from its legacy in fine tailoring with support
from the designer of the high street, River Island. Martine Rose debuted her AW16 collection in a film directed by Sharna Osborne.
Described as a 'colour-drenched erotica throwback to masters such as
Kenneth Anger and James Bidgood' the film drew on Mapplethorpe and
Smith like the collection, and offered an unadulterated insight into the 'men that inhabit Martine’s mind'. My favourite film of the three, Martine Rose, much like Pieter, combined the subversive with fashion to great effect. Man About Town, on the other hand, had Jason Williamson of Sleaford Mods tell me to fuck off for 3 minutes. Less keen on that one haha. Make up your own mind of the films below, and here's to another successful LCM!